Regenerative Fashion Conference: Responsible Purchasing Practices and the implementation of Human Rights and Environmental Due Diligence (HREDD)
Blogpost, 19 September 2023
Last week, TIWW participated in the Regenerative Conference hosted by Fashion Declares, held on the eve of London Fashion Week.
It was inspiring to see the shared commitment between TIWW and Fashion Declares in addressing the fashion industry's pressing social, commercial and environmental challenges. Both initiatives recognise the importance of a holistic approach when confronting these issues, and the day’s discussions focussed on collaborative solutions.
Among other topics, speakers during the first and second panels discussed the urgent need to transform brands' purchasing practices to more regenerative, equitable and responsible approaches. Karen Diaz, TIWW Project Lead, took the stage during the second panel to reiterate that responsible purchasing practices are fundamental for the effective implementation of human rights and environmental due diligence:
A key message heard throughout these discussions — and one that we recognise from the results of our purchasing practices metric, which show the industry's stagnating process — is that the industry must upend its present unsustainable business model. Instead of growth, the sector should aim for balance and equity.
Debbie Luffman of Thinkcircular furthered this message, sharing that, “in 2 min the CEO of a major fast fashion brand will earn what a Bangladeshi garment worker will earn in her entire lifetime. There is loads of money in the fashion industry but it is not equally distributed. It is not only about degrowth, it is about balance and getting off this obscene business model.”
The inequity that Luffman highlights is why the industry can no longer operate as business-as-usual. Indeed, TIWW wants to see shifts in power and systemic change across the whole value chain. Being closely linked to production countries, suppliers’ and workers’ voices remain at the forefront of our agenda and must be centralised when driving systemic change. As emphasised by Collective Fashion Justice’s Emma Håkansson during the event, we need to transform the industry into one that prioritises the well-being and value of people, the planet and animals over profit and production.
The closing panel explored a new fashion narrative, focusing on reducing consumption while maintaining ethical standards, corporate activism, effective campaigns, and inclusive messaging. This panel spotlighted the surging demand for accountability within the fashion industry, driven by consumers, investors, and regulators.
Baroness Lola Young, UK House of Lords, stressed the importance of moving away from the ‘monstrous mentality’ that neglects production countries without considering the disproportionate social and environmental challenges they face, simply because these issues are not immediately visible to us. Young concluded by highlighting the need for holistic transformation across the industry: “I’m so glad that at last we are bringing it all together-- environmentalism, sustainability and human rights — because they are inextricably bound”.
Indeed, TIWW knows that when the industry convenes as a whole, we can get to the root causes of the problems that face social, commercial and environmental practices. As Young stated, these challenges are interconnected and must be tackled holistically. Together, we can all raise the bar and promote a level playing field.
All in all, the panels demonstrated that despite the complexities of garment supply chains, ambition for change is there. Having so many different stakeholders in the room showed the power of collaboration, and what can be achieved when the whole value chain’s needs are taken into account.